maremma-style steak

bistecca alla maremmana

6 servings

For a true Maremma-style steak, use an outdoor grill. Cooking over the right temperature is paramount. Charcoal or wood (used, preferably, over gas) should be reduced to white ash or hot embers—hot, but not even a touch of flame—before the steak is grilled. No oil is needed, as the marbling on a good porterhouse will coat both the grill and the steak as the meat cooks. Order a prime steak from a good butcher—one that has been properly aged for 2 to 3 weeks. A quality piece of meat, plus a little attention to technique, will produce what we think is the best steak you can eat.

• 1 porterhouse steak, 3 inches thick (about 3 pounds), at room temperature
• Coarse sea salt
• Coarsely ground black pepper
• Your best extra-virgin olive oil

Build a hot fire in a charcoal grill. Let fire burn down to medium-high heat (be sure flames have died down completely). Lay steak on grill and cook, shifting meat every 30 seconds or so to avoid flare-ups and brown evenly, until well browned, 8 to 10 minutes. Turn and repeat procedure on second side.

Using tongs, prop steak up and grill edges until browned. Grill sides of steak again, until meat is cooked to rare (about 120° on an instant-read thermometer, inserted 1½ inches into steak; meat will be cooler near the bone). Total cooking time will be 25 to 35 minutes.

Transfer steak to a cutting board and let rest for 10 minutes. Using a sharp knife, cut large loin and tenderloin sections from either side of the bone. Slice each section on a slight angle into ½-inch-thick strips. Reassemble strips next to bone, sprinkle with salt and pepper, drizzle with oil and serve.